Mar 29
Everyone in Southeast Asia beeps their horn often. Since lines in the road are merely suggestions, its used as a means to warn people youre coming. One driver we had in Cambodia was a little overboard. This mp3 is a sample from a stretch of open road. Hed honk as we passed traffic in either direction, people on bikes, people walking, people working in the fields, dogs, birds, side streets, holes in the ground, change in pavement and sometimes it seemed only because itd been quiet for too long. After you listen to this clip, imagine multiplying its length times 600. Thats how many times youd have to listen to experience the full five hours.
Listen Now! | 29 sec, 464KB
Mar 12
It cost us another $10 to have our driver to take us down a dusty road from the city to the river. We didn’t know anything about the floating village, except that he insisted we see it. He pulled over at a small building with three walls, a roof and a table where a couple men sat surrounding a metal cash box. I haggled with them on the exchange rates between the boat price listed in Cambodian Riels, my payment in Thai Baht and their change in US currency.
Back on the dusty road, I imagined how dry it must be during the dry season. The street dropped off on both sides into small waterways. Shacks stood high on skinny stalk legs. They didn’t look safe, but obviously held their weight against the rush of a wet season’s river. As we drove on, it became more congested. Stilted bamboo houses lined the entire road. The driver we had this day spoke some English. He told us the government lets the people live there for free, since they are too poor to afford anything else.
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Mar 11
Angkor Wat is one of the seven something wonder’s of the world. I can attest, since seeing it was quite wonderful. Here’s a quick history in case your interested. Think Roman Empire, but Hindu/Buddhist and in the middle of the jungle.
Wat means temple. The entire area surrounding Angkor Wat (the largest temple) is called Angkor. Many other amazing temples are located in Angkor. Since we were in Cambodia for such a short time, there was no way we could see them all, but we tried!
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Mar 10
From the killing fields Won brought us to another place where massive numbers of murder and torture took place. The Tuol Sleng Museum of Genocide in Phnom Phen was once a high school, but during the reign of the Khmer Rouge it became a torture camp, prison and execution center. The walls previously meant to give studying students an escape from the busy city, were lined with barbed wire and became barriers of imprisonment. The museum sits in the center of a suburban neighborhood, just like any school would. Inside things are as unchanged as at the killing fields.
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Mar 09
I know very little about the history surrounding the genocides committed in Cambodia in the 1970’s. The reasons for war never seem to make much difference when faced with the horror of it. I do have the stories I was told and how they affected me. And they did affect me.
The car door magically swung open and two little brown hands shot towards my lap; palms up and hopeful. I’d been preoccupied thinking about Won’s stories and wasn’t expecting another challenge of the heart. Outside the car I was surrounded by beautiful, three foot, skin and bone children so anxious and hopeful that I had something for them. Each had a well practiced, well pronounced English phrase that cut through me.

Take your picture! One dollar! Take your picture! Just one dollar please! One dollar please! Please mister, please mister…
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Mar 08
When a Cambodian speaks of their family, they don’t usually mean the immediate family. They consider aunts, uncles and cousins to be family and stay very close, often all living under the same roof. Won’s family lived in a village that sits sixty five kilometers from the Vietnam border. In 1970 the neighboring war was raging and Vietcong were crossing into Cambodia to hide in the many border villages, including Won’s. When the US government learned of this they started bombing villages in Cambodia.
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